#8 Journey Through Africa: Still Spending Millions

Couple days ago we finally said goodbye to Tokolosh as he headed off on his journey to Cape Town. Now there are just six of us left. This can have it’s ups and downs, but for now we’re only experiencing the positive aspects of traveling in a small group: we each get massive lockers to ourselves (rather than sharing); we have four seats per person; and Rommy, our new Italian guide, cooks fantastic feasts for us.
From Livingstone in Zambia we crossed back over into Zimbabwe and headed towards Hwange National Park. There we pitched our tents and began prepping our dinner when about 200 meters away from us, at a watering hole, a heard of Kudu came to have a drink. These were then followed by some Impala and eventually a heard of elephants probably 70 strong. It was a fantastic sight. They just kept on spilling out of the forest. We sat down with our dinner in a viewing platform and as the sun slowly set and the stars appeared on the sky, got to watch these magnificent animals mere meters away from us. It was a truly magical experience that has been unparalleled so far.
The next morning we set out on a game drive with Andy Trivella, a world-acclaimed guide and hunter. He’s been hired by National Geographic and charges a minimum of $2000 a day. We got to spend 13 hours with him for a mere $70 per person and it was the best game-viewing experience that I have had so far. The list of animals and birds that we saw gives you only a glimpse at what the day was like.

Mammals
— Elephant
— Lion
— Hyena
— Impala
— Kudu
— Giraffe
— Wildebeest
— Warthog
— Steenbok
— Baboon
— Small spotted genet
— Jackal (black-backed)
— Crocodile
— Zebra
— Dwarf mongoose
— Tree squirrel
— Sable
— Vervet monkey
— Wild dog

Birds
— Liacbreasted Roller
— Grey Heron
— Grey Lourie
— Yellow Billed Hornbill
— Bradfields Hornbill
— Ground Billed Hornbill
— Long Tailed Shrike
— Grown Crane
— Yellow Billed Oxpecker
— Redbilled Oxpecker
— Blacksmith Plouer
— Crowned Plouer
— White Back Vulture
— Lizard Buzzard
— Martial Eagle
— Tawny Eagle
— Crimson Breasted Shrike
— Coqui Francolin
— Redbilled Francolin
— Guinea Fowel
— Spearwinged Goose
— Egyptian Goose
— Ostrich

The lions that we saw were part of a pride of 18 and were in the process of stalking some wildebeests. It was truly impressive and originally when Andy offered to take us up closer to them we were all up for it. However, when he said that “When they charge, don’t move” – using when instead of if, the only person brave enough to join him was Greg. The rest of us hung back in the truck and nervously watched them inch closer and closer to the lions.
We didn’t say no, however, when Andy offered to take us up to some elephants. Once again the same instructions held true. If the elephant charges at you, do not move, do not run, just hold your ground. We got probably within 10 meters of some really big bull elephants and had them shake their heads and trunks at us. Yet when we began talking to them they quickly decided to back down and ran away.
The day was completed when we got to see wild dogs hunting. Wild dogs are actually not related to dogs, but are rather a species of their own. Their breed is almost extinct with only a few hundred remaining in the world. We got to see a pack of three of them hunting some steenbok. Having headed out at 6:30 am we came back to camp past 7:00pm and were warmly welcomed by Rommy who was already waiting for us with some delicious chicken cacciatore.

So that was the end of our Hwange experience. The next morning we headed back towards Vic Falls where we have been for the last two days. Yesterday was uneventful with the highlight being the $6 US dinner at a first class restaurant that was comprised of warthog steak, tiramisu cake and a coke. We felt incredibly underdressed and out of place, especially when the grand-piano player, wearing a tux and bow-tie began to play and sing. The food was delicious and a bargain when paying at the black-market exchange rate. At the official bank rate the meal would have cost us $28 US. But the 2.8 million Zim that it cost translates to a measly $6 with the black-market rate.

If you want some more mind-boggling stats:

— Not long ago the Rhodesian (Zim) Dollar was equivalent to the British Pound. Now 1 US will buy you $410,000 Zim Dollars
— 4 years ago the highest demomination note that was printed was a 500 bill. Now their highest is a 100,000 and they soon will have to start printing 1,000,000 bills considering the present-day exchange rate.
— 4 years ago the official bank rate was $1 US = 50 Zim $; black-market $1 US = $600 Zim $


Today I headed to see the Zimbabwean side of Vic Falls and once again got drenched. This time round, however, I remembered to grab my raincoat, not so much to cover me, but rather to cover my camera and camera bag. It was equally impressive to the Zambian side offering a different vantage point and perspective on this magnificent waterfall.

Tomorrow morning we head over into Botswana. All our woodcarvings have been hidden to the best of our ability and hopefully won’t be discovered. Border officials on the Botswana border have the right to confiscate any wood carvings/products and having purchased quite a few wooden souvenirs, we’re quite nervous. Hopefully though the items will make it through. Our first stop will be Chobe National Park for a day of game drivers (for some) and relaxation (for others).